Dr Shubhankar Mishra*
The shared fight against colonialism has forged an enduring bond between Mauritius and India. This bond has been beautifully showcased through their joint celebrations of Azadi ka Amrit Mahotsav and Mauritius’ 55th year of independence. These celebrations, held with equal enthusiasm, are a testament to the enormity and relevance of their symbiotic relationship. It’s heartwarming to see both countries’ mutual respect and admiration for each other and how they continue collaborating for their growth and progress.
During India’s struggle for Swaraj (self-rule), the slogan ‘Vande Mataram’ (hail Mother India) and Khadi (Linen) as a symbol of patriotism were overwhelmingly embraced, emphasizing the nation’s cultural roots and promoting self-reliance. Spinning the Charkha (wheel) to create Khadi became the ultimate way to connect with the country’s heritage and encourage self-sufficiency. Khadi symbolized the idea of simple living and high thinking and served as a powerful symbol of national pride and resistance against British colonialism. People from different social classes, including peasants, workers, and intellectuals, proudly wore Khadi, which played a crucial role in India’s fight for independence.
While witnessing the celebrations of nationhood, it’s essential to take a constructive look at our past and appreciate Khadi’s rich cultural and historical significance. Khadi, the ‘fabric of freedom,’ played a crucial part in our struggle for independence and holds immense cultural and historical importance. The mention of Khadi evokes the image of embedded virtues, like Gandhi’s serene and smiling face and the powerful tools of truth and non-violence he championed. It’s amazing to see how a simple fabric can embody the resilience and determination of our people and remind us of those virtues that are essential to our nation’s progress.
Khadi is a very special type of cloth with a rich history and cultural significance in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. It was initially known as ‘Khaddar’ and was promoted by Mahatma Gandhi as a way for Indians to become self-sufficient and independent during the struggle for freedom from colonial rule. This fabric is made by hand-spinning and hand-weaving cotton, silk, or wool fibres into yarn on a charkha. Despite its humble beginnings, Khadi has become widely accepted in various fashion circles, and even today, many people prefer it for its unique texture and durability. The first piece of hand-woven cloth was produced in the Sabarmati Ashram in 1917-18, and its coarseness inspired Gandhi to name it Khadi.
In the early 20th century, Mahatma Gandhi recognized the immense potential of Khadi, a hand-spun and handwoven fabric to transform India’s economic and social landscape. Gandhi believed that Khadi could be a powerful tool for economic empowerment, self-reliance, and unity among Indians. By promoting Khadi, he aimed to provide a means of livelihood for rural artisans, reduce India’s dependence on foreign goods and promote self-sufficiency.
Intricately linked with Khadi, the ‘Sarvodaya’ (welfare for all) promoted by Gandhi showed its impact when it came to enhancing living conditions of the downtrodden. Khadi became the symbol of India’s independence movement, and Gandhi famously said that “We cannot claim to have understood the meaning of Swaraj till Khadi becomes as universal as currency.” (Navajivan, 12-3-1922). Today, Khadi stands as a testament to Gandhi’s vision and continues to be an important part of India’s cultural heritage.
The Khadi movement was a transformative force within India’s history, as it stood for far more than just a piece of cloth. It represented a way of life that celebrated the dignity of hand labour and united people from all social backgrounds. By promoting Khadi, the movement helped to uplift poor communities across India while also taking a stand against the exploitation of people through mass-produced goods. Embracing Khadi was seen as an act of self-sufficiency, a tribute to the dignity of labour, and a celebration of the true spirit of independence.
The significance of Indian textiles, handlooms, and craftsmanship took a new turn after socio-political unrest during the late 19th-century industrialisation era. British intrusion into Indian markets and eventual collapse invited resistance from Indian leadership and the citizenry. The Swadeshi Movement, one of the most prominent examples, was a way of regaining national identity and attaining economic self-reliance. The Gandhian idea of home rule or swaraj encompassed ending dependency on foreign materials in the long run. Gandhi propelled Indians to “spin, weave and wear their own khadi”. 
The story of Khadi is genuinely remarkable, and it’s hard not to feel a sense of admiration for the people who have worked hard to keep this tradition alive. From the Vedic period to the Mughal era, Khadi has been an integral part of Indian culture, and it’s fascinating to see how it has evolved over time. However, it’s also sad to think about how power looms replaced ‘charkhas’ during the Industrial Revolution and how the art of weaving Khadi was mainly confined to villages. But thanks to the Swadeshi movement, Khadi experienced a revival as it became a powerful weapon for national freedom and employment of the poor. Mahatma Gandhi popularized the spinning of Khadi as a national mission and saw it as intrinsic to India’s nationhood. As a result, Indians who believed in the freedom struggle boycotted foreign-made cloth and wore garments made of home-spun Khadi, which helped to expand the industry that had once diminished. It’s amazing to think that Khadi is still made by hand in Indian villages, using traditional techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation. Khadi fabric is hand-spun and hand-woven in Indian villages, using cotton yarn spun on a wheel, making it an eco-friendly and sustainable choice. This versatile fabric is perfect for both summer and winter wear and is available in various materials like silk or woollen yarns, depending on the region where it is spun. By choosing Khadi fabric, we not only support local communities’ growth but also contribute towards a greener and more sustainable future.
Khadi is an exceptional fabric with global recognition for its unique cultural significance and remarkable contribution to the Indian economy. As a natural fibre, it boasts a minimal ecological footprint, making it the perfect choice for environmentally conscious consumers. Moreover, the fashion industry has taken notice of Khadi’s versatility and has been experimenting with blends and accessories to cater for a broad range of consumers. Khadi’s journey from symbolising India’s non-violent resistance during the freedom struggle to becoming a timeless fashion statement is a testament to its enduring relevance. It has the power to inspire designers, artists, and consumers worldwide to embrace this exceptional fabric and contribute to a more sustainable future.
The story of the Khadi fabric is one of evolution and resilience. Khadi has adapted to the times from the Ambar Charkhas of the late 1950s to solar-powered mechanised charkhas. However, the indiscriminate use of genetically modified BT cotton poses a serious threat to the Swadeshi of Khadi. Despite a dip in sales and popularity in the 90s due to a weakened connection with the youth, Khadi has made a strong comeback through the Make in India initiative. Even today, almost a century later, the principles behind the “fabric of freedom” still hold relevance.
Khadi is a fabric that has been an integral part of Bangladesh’s rich history, with a legacy dating back to the 12th century. Marco Polo once described Khadi from the Bengal region as finer than a spider’s web. Although the importance of handwoven cloth has somewhat diminished over time, it still holds a special place in the hearts of people in Bangladesh as a beloved souvenir. Communities of weavers in Cumilla, Feni, and Noakhali joined in solidarity to protest for their rights. It is worthy to mention that the Bengal Khadi Muslin fabric was admired by the Romans, as well who imported significant amounts.
The 21st-century fashion industry could benefit from reflecting on Gandhi’s approach to clothing and the powerful message it conveyed. Gandhi’s choice to wear loose white robes and a dhoti, seen as a symbol of Indianness at the time, was a bold statement. Peter Gonsalves wrote a fascinating essay on Gandhi called “Half Naked Fakir – The Story of Gandhi’s Personal Search for Sartorial Integrity”. The essay explains how Gandhi used his clothing to explore the truth, and it was during his time in South Africa, he realized the importance of dressing in a way that was true to his culture and identity rather than trying to learn the British. It was only during his stay in South Africa that Gandhi realized that even the Britishified Indians (products of English education and culture) were a laughing stock amongst the British and were called “coolies”. His message asserting Indianness is still relevant today as we strive to create a more inclusive and diverse fashion industry that embraces individuality and promotes social justice.
It’s interesting to learn that the Indian National Flag is traditionally made with a fabric called Khadi, which is culturally and historically significant. The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) is the only organization that has the exclusive right to manufacture the flag. KVIC’s mission is to provide sustainable employment opportunities, promote self-reliance among underprivileged communities, and foster a thriving rural society with high-quality, saleable products. Institutions like KVIC are critical in galvanizing the rural economy while preparing young India for a technology-driven future. The process of handwoven hand-spun is essential to appreciate the product thoroughly. Additionally, ‘Make in India’ is a great initiative that focuses on creating products that align with India’s rich cultural heritage while keeping up with modern production methods to represent conscious consumerism.
The global fashion industry is under scrutiny for its lack of accountability and transparency. Efforts to tackle this issue are underway globally, with campaigns such as “Who Made My Clothes” (the brainchild of Orsola de Castro and Carry Somers of Fashion Revolution UK) gaining momentum in several countries, including India. In India, there is a movement towards slow fashion, which celebrates weavers and artisans, embraces regionalism, and promotes cultural sustainability. Khadi, a fabric made from indigenous cotton and wool, is the perfect example of this movement. It is suited for tropical climates and is eco-friendly. More than just a “one nation, one yarn” product, Khadi is a symbol of India’s diverse cultural heritage. From Kashmir to Kanyakumari, Khadi represents India’s unique textures and moods, woven together by hand-spun, handwoven threads.
It’s fascinating to see how Khadi has evolved from being just a symbol of Indian independence to becoming a catalyst for transformation. It has rightly been said, “Khadi is not just for nation and fashion, but also for transformation”. The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) expects Khadi to become a key driver in transforming the rural industry into a national strength. While Gandhi’s preferred Khadi was white and coarse, the KVIC now offers Khadi in different colours and designs and uses it for other products like shampoos, khadi candies, and cosmetics. Khadi has become an economic national brand for modern India.
Khadi, a symbol of India’s cultural heritage, has been adopted and integrated into various cultures around the world. While it is true, that some may view this as cultural appropriation, it is important to note that Khadi’s popularity among diverse communities is a testament to its universal appeal. The influence of Gandhian darshan and Khadi on the world is undeniable, and it is heartening to see how people have been inspired by these ideas and styles in their own unique ways. Khadi has been and will always be a source of inspiration for generations. Gandhi’s vision continues to live on through khadi, making it an iconic fabric of sustainability and symbolizing the resilience of the Indian people.
- The writer is a Government of India official representing the country in the World Hindi Secretariat, Mauritius as Deputy Secretary General. He has authored several books on language, culture and education for all age groups. Views expressed are personal.
Khadi fabric is hand-spun and hand-woven in Indian villages, using cotton yarn spun on a wheel, making it an eco-friendly and sustainable choice. This versatile fabric is perfect for both summer and winter wear and is available in various materials like silk or woollen yarns, depending on the region where it is spun.
It’s interesting to learn that the Indian National Flag is traditionally made with a fabric called Khadi, which is culturally and historically significant. The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) is the only organization that has the exclusive right to manufacture the flag.